Mar 26, 2024
mins read
How does skin pigmentation develop?
Whether you have fair or dark skin, your skin contains a pigment called melanin. Melanocytes, located in the deeper layer of the epidermis, produce melanin, which is the substance that gives the skin its colour. Essentially, melanin has protective and antioxidant effects on the cells. It serves as a natural sunscreen, absorbing 50-75% of ultraviolet radiation and combats oxidative stress.
Discolorations (or melanoses/pigmentation) occur when the skin begins to produce an excess amount of melanin, which deposits in certain areas, thus creating spots and darker "patches" compared to the neighbouring skin. It has been estimated that 75% of individuals over the age of 60 have at least one skin discolouration.
Pigmentation types: location and characteristics
Epidermal type: Located on the surface of the skin and usually brown in colour. This type is responsive to treatment.
Dermal type: It is deeper, without specific boundaries, and its colour is dark, almost black. It requires a multi-modal approach to treatment.
Mixed type: Intermediate in size, with unclear boundaries and dark brown colour. This type responds with more difficulty to treatments.
Indeterminate type: Its boundaries are unclear and appear more on darker skin tones. Alexandrite laser is not suitable for medium-dark skin colour.
Categories of skin pigmentation
Pigmentation is divided into five categories:
Pigmentation due to the sun, sunspots.
Pigmentation due to ageing spots.
Pigmentation due to hormonal changes (e.g., pregnancy) and melasma/chloasma.
Pigmentation after skin trauma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Pigmentation due to cosmetic or pharmaceutical products.
Sunspots and age spots
Sun exposure is by far the number one cause of discolourations. When harmful UV rays stimulate melanocytes, they react by releasing melanin. Melanin acts as a natural sunscreen, absorbing and redistributing energy from UV rays. However, overexposure to the sun (especially without protection) can stimulate excessive melanin production and cause dark-coloured patches on the skin, known as sunspots, which are signs of photodamage.
Beyond sunspots, the sun is also responsible for age spots, which appear as the harmful effects of solar radiation accumulate on the skin. As the skin ages, the years of exposure to the sun add up. Age spots usually appear after the age of 55. They are brown or black in colour, flat, oval-shaped, and appear as "splatters" on areas of the body that have been more exposed to the sun: the face, hands, shoulders, back, and legs.
Melasma/chloasma
Hormonal fluctuations disrupt, among other things, the function of melanocytes and cause a type of discolouration called melasma. Melasma often appears during pregnancy (also referred to as chloasma or "pregnancy mask") due to the overproduction of progesterone and estrogen during that period. Sometimes, they fade away with the end of pregnancy or when hormones return to normal levels, but not necessarily.
Melasma may also appear during lactation, contraceptive pill use, hormone replacement therapy, or the presence of polycystic ovary syndrome and may be associated with hormonal fluctuations during the menstrual cycle. It is usually observed on the nose, cheeks, forehead, temples, chin, or the area above the lips.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Discolourations can develop after inflammation, burns, or skin trauma and are particularly common in individuals suffering from acne, eczema, allergic reactions, or other skin conditions. These discolourations are called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and constitute the skin's normal response to inflammation.
When a wound is caused, inflammation develops in the area, and as the skin rushes to heal it, it secretes more melanin, resulting in discoloration.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is particularly common after acne breakouts. As the irritated skin heals, a dark-coloured spot remains, ranging in colour from pink to red, purple, brown, or black. This is another reason why it is discouraged to pick spots.
Discolorations due to medication
Some medications can increase skin pigmentation and cause spots, freckles, and other discolourations. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, tetracyclines, acne topical medication and psychotropic drugs are most commonly responsible.
Pigmentation: The crucial role of ageing and heat
Ageing
Ageing can intensify the appearance of pigmentation for two reasons: first, as the skin ages, melanocytes decrease in number but increase in size and melanin production. Second, aged skin becomes thinner, paler, and more translucent, resulting in a more pronounced appearance of dark spots.
Heat
Exposure to heat sources, such as the sun or sauna, can exacerbate discolourations caused by hormonal factors. Heat helps dark spots to enlarge and spread.
How to prevent skin pigmentation
Some careless moments under the sun are enough to leave their mark on your skin, especially on the sensitive and exposed areas of your face. Over time, spots multiply and darken, and the face looks aged. See what you can do in terms of prevention!
Sunscreen: Wear sunscreen daily with SPF50+ protection, even if the weather is cloudy.
Sunglasses and hat: On sunny days, protect your skin even more by wearing a hat and sunglasses.
Healthy skin: Treat skin conditions that can lead to inflammation, such as acne, to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Stay away from heat: Avoid heat sources like saunas and steam rooms, as high temperatures promote melanin overproduction and worsen existing spots.
Antioxidants: Use an enhanced antioxidant product (e.g., serum) with vitamin C frequently, which inhibits melanin production and has antioxidant properties for the skin. For more natural remedies tips read our article “Treat Pigmentation at Home”.
Modern treatments: Rely on modern aesthetic treatments like our laser rejuvenation treatment that prevent the development of discolorations, combat the effects of photoaging and keep your facial skin healthy and radiant.
Are you tired of dealing with skin pigmentation issues? Book a free consultation at Roxane Laser Studio to take the first step towards a clearer, more even complexion!
